raf's, new york - La Marzocco USA

Coffee Rituals: Raf’s with Chef Mary Attea

Stroll down Elizabeth Street in New York City’s charming NoLita neighborhood and you’ll find a place that feels like it’s always been there. Raf’s, an all-day Italian-French bakery and restaurant, is a true neighborhood gathering spot. Inspired by classic Italian bars where locals stop in for a quick espresso or fresh bread, Raf’s carries the same spirit within the walls of a former 1930s Sicilian bakery.

With one of its original brick ovens still in use today, the restaurant greets guests with freshly baked pastries and the steady hum of a La Marzocco espresso machine. The food mirrors the atmosphere: abundant, rustic, and full of life. Chef Mary Attea, who also helms Michelin-starred Musket Room and Café Zaffri, describes her ideal breakfast here as a French omelette with soft curds, topped with crème fraîche, trout roe, and her favorite herbs, chive and tarragon. For her, it’s light yet luxurious, the kind of breakfast that sustains you through the day.

At Raf’s, the same care that goes into an omelette or a pastry also extends to the coffee program. While a perfect espresso is always ready for guests, we sat down with Attea to learn more about the coffee rituals that fuel behind the scenes.

What’s an espresso tradition in your restaurant that guests might not see?
I’ve worked in restaurants for 20 years, and coffee culture within the restaurant and among the staff is really big. We work long hours, we work late nights, so a lot of times everybody just needs their coffee to keep them going through the day. Everyone here, usually before the start of a breakfast service or dinner service, will get their coffee.

We really encourage everyone to know the product we’re serving. A lot of restaurants will buy cheap coffee or just something to make mass amounts for everybody to drink. We let our team enjoy our espresso drinks to get to know the coffee so that they can learn it and sell it.

How does espresso play a role in your daily routine at the restaurant?
When I come in here in the morning, I’ve already had a little coffee at home just to get me up. I’ll come here and meet with my business partners or the chefs. The first thing we all do is just grab an espresso to go down to our meeting room in the PDR. We all have our special orders, but it is something that feels like a ritual or a moment where we just gather and sip that coffee. Then, it’s like we can get focused and start with our day.

What’s your go-to espresso drink order?
Cortado with whole milk. It’s smooth. It doesn’t really dilute the espresso as much as a latte. I just love the silky, rich creaminess of a Cortado. I also love having my espresso with a croissant in the morning. That’s an indulgent breakfast I’ll have from time to time.